When Heaps Normal reached out and asked if I wanted to tell my story as part of their Normal People film series, there was no way I could turn it down.
They were on a mission to question and reimagine what “normal” truly means through people in the community. As many of you know, about 2 years ago, I got karate chopped in the face with a surfboard fin and it cost me the vision in my left eye. The experience was both an eye-opener as well as an eye-closer and made me ponder my life’s decisions and question what I was doing in my life.
Photography and the outdoors have and always will be, part of my life. This short film tells the story of the journey so far and how a single moment in time can change your perspective on things forever.
Read my interview with Semi Permanent.
BEHIND THE SCENES OF ‘SEE IT TO BELIEVE IT’
Shot by Kate Atkinson
What’s the worst headache you’ve ever had?
In 2021, I had a surfing accident that would change my life forever.
It all started with a pre-work surf with Tim and Simba, who in hindsight probably wish they weren’t there to witness my rude head a few hours later. It was a good session, and as we sat in the line up for one last wave before we headed in, a quick glance to the horizon showed promise for a set rolling through. One wave in particular caught my eye (no pun intended) and Tim saw it too, we both started paddling. We both got up on the wave, with Tim going right and myself going left. As I looked up, I saw someone drop in a little further up in the wave. No dramas, I thought to myself, I’ll duck back out and grab one more. So I turned into the wave but caught a bump which sent me tumbling under the wave. I held my breath till the turbulent flow of the wave had passed over me and I resurfaced. Everything felt normal, but I had something touch my face while I was underwater so I thought I’d better check. I put my hand up to my face and I immediately knew something was wrong, very wrong. My finger had pushed further into my face than I would’ve wanted and I was in trouble. I knew it straight away. I remember the first thought that passed through my mind – “Get out of the water or you’re going to die”.
I felt like I’d just taken 100 shots of adrenalin straight to the aorta and started screaming for help like my life depended on it. Another surfer paddled over and when he saw me I just heard him utter a single word, “Fuck”. He couldn’t help me though, I was getting washed around and still had my leash attached to me. I unstrapped myself and started swimming. Stroke by stroke with every part of me willing myself onto the shore. I hit land. I stumbled up the beach using whatever I had left and flopped onto the sand. About 30 minutes later I was in an ambulance on the way to the ER. On the way there I mumbled, “I don’t look great do I?” and got a cheeky “Yeah, you’ve looked better mate”. He will probably never know how much I needed that chuckle.
Fast forward to a 10-hour surgery consisting of a three-piece combination special of neuro, ophthalmology, and plastic surgery. I woke up in the ICU to two distressed sisters who had flown to Sydney to be there when I woke up. They’d been told by doctors that they weren’t sure if I’d know who they were when I woke up. As my vision cleared up and I saw them beside my bed I whispered: “Ugh, what are you guys doing here?” and a collective sigh of relief was had. I later found out that I had suffered the highest medical grade of traumatic brain injury via a surfboard fin karate chop straight to the frontal lobe that was taking no prisoners. I’d lost the vision in my left eye forever and I’m blessed I didn’t lose more. Now when you first get told that you don’t take it too well. In fact, I was almost in too much shock to react at all. I had what I imagine people describe as their lives flashing before their eyes (or eye in my case). I won’t be able to drive. I won’t be able to take photos. I won’t be able to work. Funnily enough, those were the first three thoughts that crossed my mind. I’m still able to do all three and what’s more, I don’t even need to close my left eye when looking into the viewfinder of a camera anymore.
Now with all of this comes a prolonged recovery period and almost every mental/physical challenge known to man. You name it, I felt it. But has it slowed me down? I’m happy to say no. I’m lucky to have no one to compare my situation to and create barriers for my mind and I hope I never do. Thank you to everyone who helped me on my journey through this, I’ll never forget what you did for me. Trust me.
Life is fleeting, live it up. You never know what the next wave will bring.
Please enjoy the photos below that made me cry while eating breakfast.
PHOTOS FROM THE ACCIDENT
Shot by Anouk Berney
